Travel Guide

Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel’s Creative Allure

In the heart of Downtown Los Angeles’ vibrant South Park District, Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel is a feast for the senses. Originally built as a private sporting club turned YWCA, the 1926 California Renaissance Revival landmark was reimagined in 2021 as a modern boutique hotel with an expressive soul. The creative vision of designer Kelly Wearstler masterfully blends the building’s period architectural elements with Mexican modernism and a mix of French, Spanish, Portuguese, and Moroccan design flourishes. Every space tells a story through a tapestry of textures, curated vintage furnishings, handcrafted details, and statement-making murals and installations by local artists. 

The exterior of the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
The exterior of the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Entrance to the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Entrance to the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel

In the hotel lobby, a tiled reception desk by ceramicist Morgan Peck welcomes guests while a custom mural by Abel Marcias climbs along the arched ceilings. Just off the lobby, stained-glass windows and doors by Judson Studios frame the entrance to the hotel’s signature restaurant, Caldo Verde. More than 100 different kinds of tile are integrated into the design of the hotel, ranging from hand-painted to vintage to custom-commissioned and fabricated. Wearstler’s singular creative vision is woven through all 147 guest rooms and suites and spills onto the rooftop lounge and pool with its stunning, panoramic views of the city.

Lobby of the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
The lobby of the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
The lobby of the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
The lobby of the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel

Guest Rooms and Suites

Residential in feel, each of the guest rooms and suites tells a story of its own. Curated vintage pieces are juxtaposed with custom-designed furnishings. The walls are covered in hand-raked plaster and painted in warm, inviting hues. The luxurious beds are wrapped in Bellino fine linens and feature richly textured custom headboards, throws, and pillows. The large, original windows flood the rooms with natural light and provide fabulous city views. Sophisticated comforts include well-curated minibars, Aesop bath amenities, Kelly Wearstler x Parachute Home robes, Vifa speakers, and HDTV streaming.

Guest room at Downtown LA. Proper Hotel
Guest room at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Premier King View Room at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Guest room at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel

Of particular note are the hotel’s Basketball Suite and the Pool Suite. The Basketball Suite reimagines the building’s original basketball court as a 1,430 square foot suite with double-height ceilings, living and dining areas, and of course, an elevated basketball hoop. The one-of-a-kind Pool Suite was built around the YWCA’s indoor swimming pool and features a stunning ceramic tile mural handcrafted by local artist Ben Medansky. The 2,777 square foot suite also offers an open floor plan for living and dining and a separate bedroom with an en suite bath.

Pool suite at Downtown LA. Proper Hotel
The Pool Suite at Downtown LA. Proper Hotel
A Premier Corner Suite at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
A Premier Corner Suite at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel

Food and Drink

Forbes calls the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel “the best hotel in Los Angeles for foodies.” The hotel houses a trio of culinary hotspots helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin and restaurateur Caroline Styne. Just off the lobby on the ground floor, Caldo Verde is an homage to Spanish and Portuguese culinary traditions with a distinctive Southern California flair. The menu features local, seasonal, vegetable-driven market fare and a curated selection of boutique wines. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of downtown, the hotel’s intimate cocktail lounge—Dahlia—provides an inspired escape for after-work drinks, a small celebration, or a cozy night out.  Perched on the hotel’s rooftop is Cara Cara, a lively restaurant and lounge serving fresh, seasonal fare with epic, city skyline views. Whether seated on the elevated outdoor dining deck or beside the fire pit on the lower-level lounge, Cara Cara is an exceptional spot for sipping cocktails at sunset.

Caldo Verde at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Caldo Verde at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Dahlia Lounge at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Dahlia Lounge at Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
The bar at Cara Cara  on the rooftop of Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
The bar at Cara Cara on the rooftop of Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel

Amenities and Happenings

Around the corner from Cara Cara, the hotel boasts a small, heated rooftop pool overlooking the city’s glittering high rises. It’s a stunning setting for morning laps, a leisurely dip, or soaking up the sun while relaxing on one of the chaise lounges. The hotel’s 24-hour fitness center is equipped with Woodway treadmills, Peloton bikes, a rower, and a Smith machine. Yoga and meditation classes are available most mornings in the light-filled Cabrillo Club room with its beautiful arched windows. From 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Friday through Sunday, Dahlia serves an exquisite afternoon tea with a curated selection of sweet and savory bites. On Friday and Saturday evenings, Caldo Verde transforms into a hi-fi listening lounge with Vinyl Nights featuring local DJs.

Pool deck on the rooftop of Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Pool deck on the rooftop of Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel
Pook deck of Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel overlooking the city.
Rooftop views from Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel

Neighborhood

Downtown Los Angeles is enjoying a renaissance, and the Downtown L.A. Proper Hotel places guests right in the heart of the city’s creative core. Steps from the hotel, you’ll find the city’s best cultural attractions, including The Broad, an admission-free museum of contemporary art, and the Walt Disney Concert Hall, an architectural marvel that is home to the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Fashionistas will want to scour the racks in bustling the Fashion District, where they’ll find independent boutiques, designer sample sales, acres of fabric, and more. For sports and entertainment, head to the iconic Crypto.com Arena (formerly the Staples Center) and L.A. Live, a vibrant entertainment complex featuring everything from NBA games to live music to dining. Many more restaurants, food halls, jazz clubs, theaters, galleries, and more are within a short stroll of the hotel. 

Best Fireplaces at California Inns

Warm your soul this season next to a crackling fire. Whether it’s a soaring stone fireplace, an elegant Victorian hearth, or a striking modern flame, we’ve compiled some of the best fireplaces at California boutique hotels and B&Bs for cozying up to during the winter months.  

Fireplace in the lounge of the Granada Hotel & Bistro
Fireplace in the lounge of the Granada Hotel & Bistro

Granada Hotel & Bistro

An uber-modern, double-sided gas fireplace is the focal point of the private guest lounge and outdoor terrace at the Granada Hotel & Bistro in downtown San Luis Obispo. Backed by a wall of windows, the rectangular steel fireplace is striking in its design. The indoor guest lounge is made all the more inviting with comfy velvet couches, Persian rugs, and photography by Barry Goyette. Guests gather fireside in the lounge to socialize and sip wine and cocktails in the evenings. On the fireplace’s outdoor facing side, the terrace is a quiet space to read and enjoy breakfast in the sun-dappled shade of the trees.

Owner Will Jackson in the sit-in fireplace at The Inn at Newport Ranch
Owner Will Jackson in the walk-in fireplace at The Inn at Newport Ranch

The Inn at Newport Ranch 

When Will Jackson began planning to build The Inn at Newport Ranch near Fort Bragg, he dreamed of creating a walk-in fireplace that you could actually sit in. With the help of a crane, the builders placed stones weighing several tons where his dream hearth would reside before the walls or roof of the inn were ever constructed. Today, that cozy sanctuary is a 20-foot-wide fireplace in the inn’s Newport Room where guests can warm themselves and enjoy a glass of wine while sitting in the fireplace. In addition to the walk-in fireplace, nearly all of the inn’s guest rooms and suites feature wood-burning fireplaces. There’s also a kettle-style fire pit suspended from a trio of metal poles for enjoying an oceanfront fire on the bluff while the sun sets.

Dining room fireplace at Maison Fleurie
Dining room fireplace at Maison Fleurie

Maison Fleurie 

In Yountville, Maison Fleurie (or the Magnolia Hotel as it was originally named) was built in 1873 of stone from local quarries and bricks from a demolished church. It is Napa Valley’s oldest hotel. One of the best-preserved spaces in the hotel is the dining room. Located just off the lobby, a brick fireplace is the focal point of a snug dining room decorated with antique treasures, pendant lights with Edison bulbs, tufted wingback chairs, and an inviting farmhouse dining table and chairs. It’s a cozy place to enjoy the inn’s gourmet breakfasts and evening wine and cheese.

Fireplace at Black Bear Lodge
Fireplace at Black Bear Lodge

Black Bear Lodge

Just a mile from Heavenly Mountain Resort in South Lake Tahoe, Black Bear Lodge blends rustic style with a modern, upscale vibe. The centerpiece of the main lodge is a soaring, 32-foot river rock fireplace in the great room, which also features rough-hewn wood timbers, vaulted ceilings, and a wall of windows. Leather couches and chairs flanking the fireplace and cozy seating in the loft above provide inviting spaces to gather, read, play games, and watch the snowflakes swirl outside. One of Lake Tahoe’s best-kept secrets is the lodge bar, which serves a rotating selection of craft beers, California wines, and small plates that can be enjoyed fireside. In addition, all of the lodge’s guest rooms and cabins feature private gas fireplaces.

Glass and steel fireplace at the Brewery Gulch Inn
Glass and steel fireplace at the Brewery Gulch Inn

Brewery Gulch Inn

Perched above the Mendocino coast, the cathedral-ceilinged great room at the Brewery Gulch Inn is anchored by an enormous four-sided glass and steel fireplace. Fabricated by a local shipbuilder and positioned in the center of the room, a wood-burning fire glows from the glass on all sides and warms the entire room. The fireplace is surrounded by Arts and Crafts-style leather couches, chairs, and tables where guests gather to read, play games, and sample the chef’s culinary creations. Cozy shag rugs and a tall bank of windows overlooking the ocean add to the room’s appeal. For more private fireside relaxation, each of the inn’s 10 guest rooms has a gas fireplace with leather club chairs and cozy blankets.

Batchelder tiled fireplace at the Channel Road Inn
Batchelder tiled fireplace at the Channel Road Inn

Channel Road Inn

Built in 1910, Santa Monica’s Channel Road Inn is a rare West Coast example of a shingle-clad Colonial Revival home. Saved from the wrecking ball and lovingly restored, the inn still boasts the original fireplace in the gathering room complete with its original, locally made Batchelder tiles. The tiles were handmade by Ernest Batchelder in his Los Angeles workshop in 1910. Sometimes, people stop by the inn just to see the tiles, which are highly sought-after collectibles. The fireplace, along with the great room’s beautiful woodwork and cozy seating, creates a welcoming space to gather with a glass of wine on a cool winter evening.

Great room at Timber Cove Resort
Great room at Timber Cove Resort

Timber Cove Resort

On the rugged Sonoma coastline, a three-story stone fireplace soars up through the exposed wood timbers in the great room of the Timber Cove Resort. The fireplace is original to the 1963 resort, which was designed by a protégé of Frank Lloyd Wright. The resort underwent a massive renovation in 2016 to bestow the comforts and amenities of a modern boutique hotel while retaining the resort’s architecture and authentic midcentury vibe. Today, the massive stone fireplace presides over cozy seating areas, a full bar, an impressive collection of vinyl records, and board games and books. The resort also features a retro steel fireplace in the restaurant, gas fireplaces in most of the guest rooms, and two outdoor fire pits, one of which overlooks the ocean.

The fireplace in S.Low Bar at Hotel San Luis Obispo
The fireplace in S.Low Bar at Hotel San Luis Obispo

Hotel San Luis Obispo 

In the heart of San Luis Obispo’s historic district, Hotel San Luis Obispo is a vibrant urban oasis with design-rich common areas for guests to enjoy. Just off the lobby in the S.Low Bar, a large modern fireplace with cozy seating offers an inviting space for sharing cocktails and conversation. It’s also a prime spot for watching the world drift by. The gas fireplace fronts floor-to-ceiling windows offering views of a bustling streetscape and SLO foothills in the distance. From their fireside gathering spot, guests can also catch live music performed in the bar on any given night. In the outdoor courtyard behind the bar, cozy seating surrounds rectangular fire pits made of weathered steel.

Great room in Circle Bar B's historic main lodge
Great room in Circle Bar B’s historic main lodge

Circle Bar B Guest Ranch 

The massive stone fireplace at Circle Bar B Guest Ranch in Goleta has been warming visitors for more than a century. Featuring herringbone stonework and a log mantle, the fireplace was built as part of the original lodge for a children’s camp in the 1920s. Today, it’s the inviting focal point of the dude ranch’s lobby and western-style bar. After a day of horseback riding, guests can curl up next to the fire on cozy couches flanking the hearth. Directly in front of the flames, there’s a large coffee table that is perfect for playing cards or board games. Guests can also enjoy the crackling fire from nearby tables and an upstairs loft overlooking the great room.

Marble fireplace in the dining room of the Hotel Bel-Air
Marble fireplace in the restaurant of the Hotel Bel-Air

Hotel Bel-Air

At the legendary Hotel Bel-Air, world-class luxury emanates from every corner of this Beverly Hills icon, including from three notable fireplaces that are always aflame. One of the fireplaces illuminates the dark and swanky bar which is lined with striking black-and-white portraits of Hollywood legends. An elongated glass and marble fireplace in the hotel’s main restaurant enhances the dining experience with its constant blaze. In the new communal Living Room, guests can gather around a large, four-sided glass fireplace that centers the inviting, botanical-inspired space. In addition to the hotel’s three famous fireplaces, guests can cozy up an outdoor courtyard fireplace or gas fire pits scattered amid the lush gardens.     

Fireplace inside the Old Adobe at San Ysidro Ranch
Fireplace inside the Old Adobe at San Ysidro Ranch

San Ysidro Ranch 

Nestled in the Santa Barbara foothills, San Ysidro Ranch is a destination of discreet luxury that has been attracting discerning travelers since 1893. The resort’s legacy of refined hospitality resonates throughout the property, including in the Old Adobe which can be reserved for private fine dining. A California historic landmark dating back to 1825, the Old Adobe is dressed in rustic elegance and features original adornments, including a mesmerizing fireplace built of thick adobe brick. Its soot-stained face elicits tales of early settlers while the crackling fire below casts a warm glow across the room’s rustic walls and wood-beamed ceiling.     

Lobby lounge and fireplace at R Inn Napa
Lobby lounge and fireplace at R Inn Napa

R Inn Napa

The stunning fireplace in the lobby at R Inn Napa looks like a modern art installation of glass and brushed metal. Its sleek lines complement the soothing rhythm of gas-lit flames, adding to the room’s overall appeal as a chic space to unwind. A bank of low-back couches faces the glass-front fireplace, offering guests front-row seating to the fire’s hypnotic performance. Jewel-toned accent furnishings, Italian chandeliers, and floor-to-ceiling windows complete the look of this inviting common area where guests can relax with a book, enjoy a glass of wine or cup of coffee, or meet up with others before a night on the town.    

Recessed inglenook fireplace inside the dining room of The Pelican Inn
Recessed inglenook fireplace inside the dining room of The Pelican Inn

The Pelican Inn 

Minutes north of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, The Pelican Inn is a coastal Tudor-style country inn steeped in 16th-century English legend and lore. The essence of ancient times is captured perfectly in the traditional pub and restaurant where a recessed inglenook fireplace adds warmth, glow, and story to the room. The fireplace features a hidden “priest hole” which has a trap door leading to a small escape room. The feature is a nod to the Catholic priest-hunting days of medieval England when people would secretly harbor priests from bounty hunters. The mantle above the fireplace reads, “Fear knocked at the door, faith answered, no one was there.”

Hammered metal fireplace in the dining room of the Old Monterey Inn
Hammered metal fireplace in the dining room of the Old Monterey Inn

Old Monterey Inn

The Old Monterey Inn was built in 1929 by Carmel Martin Sr., a grandson of Monterey’s earliest pioneers who laid plans for the City of Monterey and served as its first mayor. His grand, three-story English Tudor features the original wood-burning fireplaces in the dining room and parlor. The dining room fireplace has a unique hammered metal hood with a fleur-de-lis motif. Breakfast is served each morning in the dining room next to the roaring fire. In the parlor, the fire crackles during the evening wine reception where guests can curl up in front of the hearth. Each of the inn’s guest rooms and suites features fireplaces as well.

Stoen fireplace with cozy seating on either side.
Fireplace inside the restaurant and bar at Highlands Ranch Resort

Highlands Ranch Resort

The heartbeat of Highlands Ranch Resort near Lassen Volcanic National Park is the large wood-burning fireplace located in the resort’s lodge-style restaurant and bar. The rustic-chic space was restored using reclaimed and repurposed materials and exudes an upscale alpine ambiance. Guests can sip cocktails at the bar and hear the fire crackling in the background or sink into one of the comfortable couches fronting the stone fireplace. The fireplace nook is especially popular on snowy days. With its vaulted ceilings and wall of windows, the restaurant and bar area is a fabulous place to watch the snow fall over Childs Meadow. All of the resort’s cottages also feature gas fireplaces.  

 

Hotel Erwin Captures Venice Beach’s Creative Spirit with an Elevated Spin

Rising above the carnivalesque mix of street buskers, bodybuilders, skaters, surfers, tattoo artists, and souvenir shops, the Hotel Erwin is among the best places to stay on Venice Beach. Just steps from the famous boardwalk and wide sandy beach, Hotel Erwin is a love letter to Venice Beach’s madcap creative spirit but with an elevated vibe. A landmark in its own right, the family-owned hotel will celebrate 50 years in 2025. 

Bike path and palms along Venice Beach
Bike path and palm trees along Venice Beach
Rollerskating plaza at Venice Beach
Rollerskating plaza at Venice Beach
Skate park at Venice Beach
Skate park at Venice Beach
Hotel Erwin rising above the Venice Beach Boardwalk
Hotel Erwin rises above the Venice Beach Boardwalk

I could hear the party pulsing on the hotel’s rooftop lounge from the moment I arrived. The valet driver who took my car was wearing pink sunglasses, as was the surfer dude posing as a front desk clerk who checked me in. When I later ventured up to the roof, DJs were cranking out tunes for a crowded dance floor where nearly everyone was wearing pink sunglasses as well. One of the dancing wait staff slipped a pair of pink sunglasses into my hand and invited me to dance. I put them on and joined the crowd dancing in the hazy, golden-hued sunshine and ocean breeze.

Hotel Erwin
Hotel Erwin
HIgh Rooftop Lounge at Hotel Erwin
High Rooftop Lounge at Hotel Erwin

Spanning the entire top floor of the hotel and aptly named High, the open-air rooftop lounge boasts stunning views gazing out over the Pacific Ocean and the city. The panoramas extend from downtown Los Angeles to the Santa Monica Mountains and along the glittering, palm-fringed coastline stretching from Malibu to Palo Verdes. The DJ booth and dance floor are tucked back near the bar while cushy seating lining the perimeter of the rooftop provides front-row views of the city, the planes taking off from LAX, and the epic sunsets over the ocean.

Cocktails at HIgh Rooftop Lounge at Hotel Erwin
Cocktails at the High Rooftop Lounge at Hotel Erwin
HIgh Rooftop Lounge at Hotel Erwin at sunset
HIgh Rooftop Lounge at Hotel Erwin at sunset

Los Angeles’ best westside DJs spin tunes on the rooftop lounge until 10 p.m. every Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday night, attracting a cult following of locals as well as hotel guests. Regardless of whether the music is pumping, the epic sunsets are a nightly lure, as are High’s expertly crafted seasonal cocktails and fresh, locally inspired cuisine.

Pizza Girl at Hotel Erwin
Pizza Girl at Hotel Erwin

In addition to the rooftop lounge, Hotel Erwin also features two other culinary draws: the craft cocktails and small bites at Barlo Kitchen + Cocktails and the first brick-and-mortar location for Caroline D’Amore’s viral Pizza Girl, which serves up sensational Neapolitan pies and slices in pink boxes.

Partial King View Room at Hotel Erwin
Partial King View Room at Hotel Erwin
View from the private balconies at Hotel Erwin
View from the private balconies at Hotel Erwin

When you’re ready to turn in for the night, the rooms at Hotel Erwin offer a relaxing oasis infused with creativity and luxurious touches. I stayed in a partial ocean-view king room with a bank of sliding glass doors that opened to a private balcony with views of Venice Beach high above the fray. The playful décor includes bedside tables inspired by Jeff Koons, a hand-drawn wallpaper print of signed handprints, and half-moon orange pendant lights on dimmers. The rooms are also equipped with 49-inch HD TVs with media hubs, free WiFi, and well-curated honor bars with chilled mixers stashed in the fridge. 

Dining room for Barlo Kitchen + Cocktails
Breakfast dining room for Barlo Kitchen + Cocktails
One of the two robe options at Hotel Erwin
One of the two robe options at Hotel Erwin

Hotel Erwin serves a complimentary breakfast each morning downstairs at Barlo Kitchen + Cocktails. But if you’re nursing a hangover and just want to munch on leftover pizza while lounging around in a robe, the hotel provides two options: a cozy standard white hotel robe or a lime-green leopard-print robe to channel your inner party animal.